VGA Splitter adaptor for shutter glasses

The 'T-Bone' (VGA Splitter)

Parts needed :

Half (or less, don't make it too long) of some old/spare VGA monitor or Voodoo2 loop cable (the side with the male connector for the VGA out of the PC) as a good start, otherwise a male HD-15 VGA connector with plastic shell and some (~30 cm / 1ft.) VGA cable (15 wires).
Two female HD-15 VGA connectors and a pass-through plastic shell (usually used for 9-pin serial adaptors, see picture below).
One of the +5V DC supply solutions (I chose the USB version here)
(optional) a switch (single pole, two positions) to toggle the glasses' power supply between VGA pin #9 from the PC and external source (to check if the graphics card really doesn't provide power)

This adaptor is built of quite common parts only (compared to mini-DIN3 connectors) – just HD-15 VGA connectors and some cable. Idea is to split the PC's VGA output to two VGA sockets :

one for the monitor, with all lines connected except (maybe) pin #12, to avoid DDC interference by the monitor
the other for the Revelator adaptor (or any other, e.g. homebrew, VGA pass-through shutter glasses controller) providing just the signals required for shutter glasses control, plus +5V power supply from some external source.

Have a look at the schematic to get the wiring right. If you can use a stub from a spare VGA cable for the PC side, you've already saved almost half of the soldering work ! OK, instead you will have to find out how wires and pins are connected in the plug..

First, use some thin isolated wire to connect pins #13, #14 and #10 between the monitor's (X2) and the glasses' (X3) VGA sockets. Only #10 (GND) is really required for the Revelators, but #13 (HSync) and #14 (VSync) may be helpful if you decide to control the glasses from Sync (with some little extra circuit) instead of pin #12. Next (angled blue bar), connect all wires coming from the PC (X1) straight through to the monitor's VGA socket (X2) – except pin #12. Connect the line coming from the PC's pin #12 only to pin #12 of the second VGA socket (for the glasses, X3) With the switch S1 (optional), you may toggle pin #9 to the glasses between pin #9 from the PC and the external +5V supply. Otherwise, connect the external supply directly to pin #9 of X3.
Now this is how the splitter looks in real life. Tight fit, but it works. Note the pass-through shell with female VGA connectors on both ends. Drill holes (slightly smaller than the cable's diameter to fix them) into the side for the cables. Most wires go to the monitor (left), so I put the power switch to the right – pink wire from PC pin#9, orange from switch to glasses' pin#9. With an USB cable for power supply, I used both +5V (red) and GND (black, hidden) from USB for the glasses. Passing above the switch, you should see (i.e. if they were not hidden), white and yellow wire for the Sync lines and the brown wire from PC pin#12 to glasses' pin #12.
Finally, the whole adaptor in all its splendid beauty :-) The cable with the plug goes into the PC's VGA output, the USB plug into an empty USB output, and monitor and Revelator adaptor into their corresponding sockets. If you don't see anything on the monitor, you must have swapped the sockets...

First, use some thin isolated wire to connect pins #13, #14 and #10 between the monitor's (X2) and the glasses' (X3) VGA sockets. Only #10 (GND) is really required for the Revelators, but #13 (HSync) and #14 (VSync) may be helpful if you decide to control the glasses from Sync (with some little extra circuit) instead of pin #12.

Next (angled blue bar), connect all wires coming from the PC (X1) straight through to the monitor's VGA socket (X2) – except pin #12.

Connect the line coming from the PC's pin #12 only to pin #12 of the second VGA socket (for the glasses, X3)

With the switch S1 (optional), you may toggle pin #9 to the glasses between pin #9 from the PC and the external +5V supply. Otherwise, connect the external supply directly to pin #9 of X3.

Now this is how the splitter looks in real life. Tight fit, but it works. Note the pass-through shell with female VGA connectors on both ends. Drill holes (slightly smaller than the cable's diameter to fix them) into the side for the cables.

Most wires go to the monitor (left), so I put the power switch to the right – pink wire from PC pin#9, orange from switch to glasses' pin#9. With an USB cable for power supply, I used both +5V (red) and GND (black, hidden) from USB for the glasses.

Passing above the switch, you should see (i.e. if they were not hidden), white and yellow wire for the Sync lines and the brown wire from PC pin#12 to glasses' pin #12.

Finally, the whole adaptor in all its splendid beauty :-) The cable with the plug goes into the PC's VGA output, the USB plug into an empty USB output, and monitor and Revelator adaptor into their corresponding sockets. If you don't see anything on the monitor, you must have swapped the sockets...

Note :

Description of circuit to drive Revelator glasses from Vsync instead of DDC line, which should get rid of most IRQ conflict problems, follows (as soon I got this power stuff done)

The 'T-Bone' (VGA Splitter)